Acne Studios experimented with basic materials and explored the art of elevation for its autumn/winter 2022 collection.
At Paris Fashion Week yesterday, Acne Studios’ creative director Jonny Johansson showcased what the brand have referred to as “the beauty of repair” in a statement. “This collection is about creating from what is around us, making something new from something familiar. It is about stitching, mending, repairing,” the said. “It is not destructive or anarchic — it is about the act of putting things back together […] It is experimenting with the materials at the heart of Acne Studios — denim, leather, jersey, knit — as well as elevating materials we live with every day.”
In front of an influence-loaded audience, models strutted down the runway in clothes that were ripped, restitched, and aged. The first look included a verrrry wide-leg garment dyed denim skirt, and other standouts included upcycled patched denim paperbag skirts and an upcycled patched denim crini dress, all of which paid homage to Acne’s denim heritage. In response to this, he used leather, denim’s natural co-conspirator, in a sequence of double-breasted trench coats reduced to slit-skirted armless dresses, some of which were also overdyed.
Additional notable elements included tuft-lined and tuft-lined and occasionally quilted regal blanket gowns in grandma florals, crystal embedded rib-kit socks over shoes, grungily faded jersey pieces, layered fringed curtain dresses, and frequent returns to the post-Talking Heads boxy blazer in overdyed leather that was another early trademark for the brand. This was an Acne collection that appeared more at ease with itself than many we’ve seen since 2010’s Kensington Palace outing.
Take a closer look at the full show below.