Sculptural necklines, black and normal-core populate Milan’s runways in the Menswear 2023 fashion week season.
It’s January 2023, and in the world of fashion that means the fall menswear collections are in full bloom. With the Milan edition wrapped up and Paris barely just starting, here are some of the most spoken about shows, trends and set-ups of the Italian fashion capital.
The Ominous Prada Set-Up
Something was beeping at the Prada fashion show. It was a peculiar sound-choice, one that merged into some kind of static soundtrack to welcome the Italian household’s first runway look, dressed in a black suit with a spiky pink collar and gold-zipper Prada loafers. Up until look twelve, that’s pretty much all we see; all black silhouettes with pops of colour in the neckline and variations of black, but the show slowly progresses into a more casual attire of padded bomber jackets and sprinkles of Parada motifs.
In true Prada style, the runway works cyclically. Its more playful pieces were sandwiched in amongst the more elegant and traditional couture, where we see a lot of suede, in browns and blacks. For the more defined silhouettes, Prada bet on emphasised high waistlines, contrasting their otherwise very un-synched blazers. The collection comes to an end with brown suede, shaped into knee-length dresses which are the epitome of Prada as a brand; seriousness laced with subdued ‘experimentality’.
Gucci is Back Without Alessandro Michele
The last we saw of Gucci was the Twinsburg runway – Alessandro Michele‘s fashion week legacy for a brand he’d been creatively directing since 2015. In other words; the Milan 2023 Menswear show was charged with an expectant audience, eager to see what the household name has been up to since his departure back in November. The unfortunate answer is; perhaps not much.
Their crowd-designed collection was, at least for Gucci standards, quite simple, despite its occasional standout moments. Oversized is what they bet on; populating the runway with large bomber jackets, blazers, jumpers and trousers. Sequins, canvas bags, streetwear-fusion and motor-wear had their moments too, showing the brand’s affinity to current fashion trends. And yet, despite the occasionally thrilling outfit, most of the collection felt relatively mundane. Relying on more conventional-wear, the menswear 2023 runway perhaps served as a breather as Gucci waits to be taken over by a new creative director.
Dolce & Gabbana Went For Simplicity
Never have blacks, greys and nudes been so versatile.
For menswear fall 2023, Dolce & Gabbana have stripped back, relying heavily on the brand’s devotion to the colour black, but twisting and testing its versatility. And versatility they have achieved. From long chiffon sleeves dotted with sequins, to furry coats or even stale grey hoodies; D&G proved to their audience just how much scope they are able to produce.
There’s an undeniable appreciation for Gen-Z fashion trends in this runway, which is a refreshing take on the more classical staples we have seen walking Milan this year. Cargo pants, crop tops, mesh and sequins are all part of the gender-pushing fashion trends taking both D&G and the younger generations, by storm.