A recap of the fashion at Michael Kors, Coach and Thom Browne during New York FW 2023.
It was a skimpy New York Fashion week. Some of the most beloved giants (namely Ralph Lauren or Tom Ford) were nowhere to be seen on the schedule – blame it on the looming crisis or appalling weather. Thinning schedules aside, those present came in stomping. From a sleeked Michael Kors, a 90s Coach and a playful Thom Browne, here’s what went down in New York Fashion Week.
Michael Kors Collection
The Michael Kors collection at New York fashion week happened amidst a grey backdrop. Grey floors, tree trunks and a dark ceiling enveloped the audience, scattered about in a runway equipped with dizzying mirrors.
Fashion-wise, Michael Kors welcomes a lot of large statement necklaces with fringes and long poised jackets. The palette echoed it’s surroundings; blacks, greys and crude whites taking over the initial runway.
As it progressed, the colours became bolder and the outfits transitioned into red sparkly night-time dresses, cape-like shirts and plunging necklines. The idea of deconstructed and long fringes, however, is still present.
Coach
It was all leather for Coach. In the shape of long trenches, skirts and short biker jackets always coloured in dark and moody hues, the fashion label felt very 90s with their latest Fashion Week creations. References to pop culture, such as the Superman logo or clashing double denim were also present, as well as Gen-Z materials (skimpy see-through fabrics and shiny silver) and low waists.
Thom Browne
Recently we’ve grown accustomed to seeing Thom Browne taking over the runway in the French capital, but this fashion week finally saw the designer return to his New York origins. With a collection inspired by The Little Prince (cue in planets, a thin layer of sand, and a crashed biplane), it all felt very topical to the US frenzy over the shot-down U.F.Os.
As per the fashion, it was all very Thom Browne in regards to couture, meaning sculptural figures, unexpected headpieces and wild make-up. The colour palette was generally muted and playful, a reference to The Little Prince’s playful and youthful graphics. Around look 10, the collection became very Chanel-like, but with much more exaggerated shoulders and some peculiar headpieces which wrapped around the model’s heads in beads. The fantasy continued. A mismatch of de-constructed fashion staples put together in the form of skirts, puffed-up sleeves and alien-like configurations took over the final runway stretch, welcoming Browne with a round of applause as he made his succinct exit.