Adrian Appiolaza: A fashion rebel rewriting Moschino’s legacy with a blend of audacity, wit, and a dash of provocation.
Moschino, known for its audacious designs and irreverent humor, has a new visionary behind its reigns: Adrian Appiolaza. With an impressive curriculum on his back, Appiolaza steps into a role vacated under tragic circumstances, following the sudden passing of Davide Renne and the departure of Jeremy Scott, who had shepherded Moschino with a bold hand for an entire decade.
Adrian Appiolaza is not a name plucked from obscurity but one that has been honed over more than a decade at the apex of fashion’s creative world. His journey through the ranks at Loewe and JW Anderson, culminating in his tenure alongside Clare Waight Keller at Chloé, has been marked by a distinctive flair for women’s ready-to-wear that blends the boundaries between art and apparel. It is this unique blend of experience, creativity, and a deep-seated knowledge of fashion’s ebbs and flows that Massimo Ferretti, chairman of Aeffe S.p.A. (the Italian luxury goods group Moschino belongs to), believes will usher in a wonderful new chapter for the brand.
What’s Appiolaza’s Story?
Adrian Appiolaza’s journey from a curious child in Buenos Aires to the creative helm of Moschino is interesting. Growing up, Appiolaza found his first muse in the dolls of his sister, crafting clothes for them with the help of his grandmother’s sewing machine. This early interest in fashion design, however, faced societal pressures, leading him initially to study Graphic Design at the University of Buenos Aires. Yet, the pull of fashion was too strong to ignore, and a love for the Madchester music scene eventually led him to London.
In London, Appiolaza’s journey took a decisive turn. Working nights in bars to save money, he found himself in a vibrant circle of fashion enthusiasts, including Nicola Formichetti, later stylist for Lady Gaga. Encouraged by his friends, including Kim Jones, now a designer for Dior, Appiolaza pursued fashion education at Saint Martins, despite initial financial and logistical challenges. His dedication paid off, leading to a stint at Alexander McQueen’s studio and ultimately, winning the award for Best Women’s Collection of his class.
From then, it was onwards and upwards.
Appiolaza’s professional path is marked by significant tenures at some of the most prestigious fashion houses and figures in the world. Appiolaza has worked with Phoebe Philo at Chloé, decided to leave a position at Prada due to its industrial approach, and has experienced Miu Miu, Dior under John Galliano, and Louis Vuitton with Marc Jacobs.
What Will Moschino Look Like Under Appiolaza?
If the latest runway (and Appiolaza’s first) is anything to go by; eclectic. Revolving around deconstructed tailoring, peculiar fittings and embroidery, Appiolaza’s first stint at Moschino opted for safety. Taking cues from previous archives, the Argentinian designer put on a show which despite read, if anything, as respectful. Yet, Appiolaza’s vision is firmly forward-looking, ready to transport the maison into a new chapter with a theatrical touch that is quintessentially Moschino.
The appointment of Adrian Appiolaza as Moschino’s creative director is a beacon of excitement and curiosity in the fashion industry, signaling the beginning of a new era for the Italian fashion house. With a history of tenures at some of the most prestigious fashion houses and an evident passion for Moschino’s legacy, Appiolaza’s leadership promises to infuse the brand with fresh ideas while respecting its rich heritage. As the fashion community looks forward to his debut collection, there’s a collective anticipation for the ways in which he will reinterpret Moschino’s iconic ethos for a new generation.