The camo, blacks, and pops of colour populated the streets of Paris as Fashion Week rolls along with the Summer 2024 Runways.
Louis Vuitton: The Pixelated Camo Print
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
The Louis Vuitton summer 2024 runway show, curated by the team’s most recent and expected incorporation, Pharrell Williams, was an absolute blast. The runway was all about embracing the iconic Damier pattern, from the choir Voice of Fire rocking their white and off-white “Damouflage” robes to Williams himself strutting in head-to-toe green pixelated Damier gear.
The show was a testament to love, with Williams aiming to spread that message through an awe-inspiring demonstration of power. Guests were transported up the Seine River on Bateaux Mouches as the sun set, eventually converging on Paris’s oldest bridge, Pont Neuf, which had been completely taken over by Louis Vuitton. The atmosphere was electric, with accordion classics and the sounds of sirens and horns creating a lively ambiance.
The guest list was star-studded, filled not only with celebrities but also notable fashion designers and former collaborators of Williams. The inclusivity of the event, which brought together a broad range of individuals, showcased Louis Vuitton‘s desire to create a diverse and welcoming environment.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
As darkness fell, the runway took center stage. The collection featured a heavy emphasis on Damouflage, starting with accessories and then extending to garments. Pieces included a Chanel-style knit jacket, a long netting-detailed duster coat, jacquard suiting, and a leather bomber, all incorporating the distinctive checkerboard pattern. The collection then transitioned to more organic shapes, reminiscent of Williams’s previous camo designs, evoking a sense of nostalgia.
An unexpected highlight came in the form of a golf buggy adorned with the word “Liberty,” carrying trunks that harkened back to Louis Vuitton’s origins. Damier continued to dominate the collection, appearing in various forms such as denim, trench coats, suiting, bikers, varsity jackets, shorts, and more, presented in multiple colorways. Clever touches like a denim trucker and jean with Epi leather relief added a touch of wit and desirability.
The accessories stole the show, with an array of eye-catching bags that exemplified Louis Vuitton’s signature style. Vibrantly colored Keepalls, Almas, Neverfulls, and Speedys were showcased in clusters, creating an enticing visual display. The Virginia choir reminded the audience, “If we want it, we can have it,” encapsulating the spirit of the collection.
Williams, with his unwavering confidence, proved that he was the perfect fit for the role many doubted he could fulfill. He delivered a show filled with boundless joy, debunking any skepticism, making the summer 2024 runway a triumphant moment for Williams as he cemented his position in the brand’s present and future.
Rick Owens: A Show in All Black
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Rick Owens cannot get enough of Tyrone Dyllan. The Australian opened the Parisian menswear show, as now has become tradition, but is also the face of Rick Owens on the website, social media, and all things alike. The model’s strong presence aside, renowned designer Rick Owens orchestrated a show that was nothing short of a spectacle. Models gracefully strode down the runway at precise intervals, their silhouettes evoking the shape of bowties—shoulders and ankles widened, cinched at the waist. Owens, donning an oversized brimmed baseball cap backstage, observed the grandeur. He noticed that even individuals with fuller figures could effortlessly carry off the look, thanks to the high-waisted pants that created a focal point just above the stomach, at the base of the sternum.
But the show didn’t stop there. At regular intervals, thunderous explosions of fireworks burst from towering structures within the Palais de Tokyo pool, filling the air with swirling hues of purple and yellow smoke. The pungent scent of cordite wafted through the atmosphere, as ash gently descended, transforming the scene into an otherworldly display of both chaos and euphoria—a mesmerizing blend reminiscent of a gothic Pompeii, where revelry persisted amidst impending doom.
Backstage, Owens maintained his composure beneath the wide brim of his cap. As the International Monetary Fund and the World Bank convened in Paris for a summit aimed at recalibrating global responses to climate change and natural disasters, Owens pondered the underlying factors driving our insatiable desire to celebrate. Against the backdrop of an industry projected to experience a significant surge in luxury spending, Owens questioned whether our fascination with luxury stemmed from fear or a sense of relief following the trials of the pandemic. To him, luxury represented an enchanting and indulgent form of denial—an expression of our innate human nature.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Beyond the realm of fashion, Owens’ summer 2024 collection held sentimental significance. Named Lido after his residence across the waters from Venice, where he had previously streamed shows to limited audiences during the pandemic, it embodied resilience and unwavering determination. Owens half-wished the rain, earlier in the day, had continued throughout the show, preserving the ambiance of emptiness and fortitude that he cherished in those previous presentations. It was a testament to his unwavering spirit, shared with his partner Michele as they sought inspiration in Diana Ross’s rain-soaked concert from 1983 earlier that morning—an act of defiance in the face of adversity.
Owens’ creations seamlessly fused Victorian structure, rigidity, and sutures with a touch of the primitive. Crafted in Italy, his designs exuded an aura of timeless antiquity, while simultaneously hinting at a futuristic vision. Hard-shouldered ensembles coexisted harmoniously with flowing, draped silk organza, evoking both ethereal elegance and primeval allure. Additionally, his goth-inspired Flintstones aesthetics, exemplified by high-top versions of his iconic leg-brace boots and “brutalist concrete sandals,” added an intriguing layer of intrigue and audacity. Owens’ collection encapsulated the essence of contradiction with purpose, transcending the boundaries of fashion to leave an indelible mark—a striking testament to beauty’s resilience in the midst of impending chaos.
Dior + The Pops of Colour
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Kim Jones, with his visionary approach and creative inclusivity, has left an indelible mark on Christian Dior and the fashion world at large. As he celebrates his fifth anniversary with the fashion house in the summer 2024 runway, Jones pays homage to the iconic designers who came before him: Yves Saint Laurent, Gianfranco Ferré, and Marc Bohan. In his anniversary collection, he seamlessly weaves together elements from their eras, intermingling them with his own unique propositions.
The venue for the runway show was a grand ephemeral house-gray box set outside the École Militaire, where eager crowds gathered to witness the spectacle. The runway itself was a breathtaking sight, composed of polished metal gray tiles, and as the ethereal sounds of Primal Scream’s “Higher Than the Sun” filled the air, models emerged from beneath the runway in a captivating grid formation, captivating the audience in a phones-up moment.
Jones’s impeccable design skills were on full display in the summer 2023 runway, as he adorned garments with polished jewels and incorporated signature Dior elements. Cardigans draped over tailored pieces featured studded jewels, while piqué polo shirts were embellished with even more precious stones. The collection showcased marled jacquard cannage knits in vibrant hues, worn nonchalantly over the impeccably tailored ensembles. A playfulness permeated the collection, evident in the semi-safarienne jackets adorned with bows and the long tweed coats featuring faded rattan motifs.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
The iconic leopard print, inspired by Mitzah Bricard, made a striking appearance on Saddle bags and vests, paired with sporty tweed shorts that later found companionship in tweed and piqué twinsets. Vibrant punches of fluoro green and orange injected a psychedelic touch, amplifying the kaleidoscopic vision of Dior under Jones’s creative direction. In his own words, the collection is a collage of different designers from the archive, expressed through shape, color, form, and mood—a testament to Jones’s ability to honor the past while pushing boundaries and shaping the future of Christian Dior.